Before you start

It is important to assess your site prior to installation of a solid wood wide plank floor. Due to its unique nature, solid wood wide plank flooring is not recommended for installations:

• in any spot where outside moisture penetration is possible;
• below the natural grade of your property; or
• over radiant heated floors.

In any of these cases, you should install engineered flooring instead.

Start with preparation

1. Only install your floor after:
   1. a. all moisture-producing trades (e.g., masonry, drywall, and plaster) are complete and thoroughly dry;
   2. b. your sub-flooring is dry;
   3. c. the roof, windows and exterior doors are installed tight and dry; and
   4. d. the HVAC systems (heat or A/C, depending on the season) have been operating for a minimum of 2 weeks.
2. Your flooring should arrive at 6-8% moisture content, plus or minus 1%. We suggest that you let the wood acclimate to the moisture in your home for:
   • 7-10 days before beginning installation (unfinished wood)
   • 3-4 days before beginning installation (pre-finished wood)

   Longer periods may be required for dryer areas. Atmospheric conditions cause all wood to expand and contract to a certain degree; acclimating the flooring before installation allows the moisture content of the wood to align with the site’s “normal living conditions” at the site. To minimize movement, relative humidity should be maintained at 40-55%, year round.

3. The natural color variations in Logs End floor planks enhance their beauty, and each plank will be unique. However, prior to installation, you should carefully inspect all planks, and should not install any unacceptable or damaged planks.
4. Your underlayment should be a minimum 5/8″ thick plywood. It should be glued and securely fastened to wood framing, or glued or shot to a thoroughly dry concrete slab. Fifteen pound or rosin paper may be used as an installation aid, but neither can be considered an effective vapor barrier.

Time your floor installation with other trades

You should install your solid wood flooring before interior trim or cabinetry, and before the application of finish wall paint. This allows the trim to be tightly fitted and cabinetry to be scribed to the floor. The result is a cleaner, more professional installation

Install your floor

1. Strike a line parallel to the longest outside wall. The line should be a distance away from the wall equal to the width of the chosen starter row, including the tongue. plus ½”. This will leave a ½” gap between the floor and the wall.
2. Align the edge of the tongue with your marked line and face nail the groove side of the boards 1” in from the edge.
3. Once all boards are securely face nailed, proceed to blind nail the tongue side, using an appropriate length cleat, every 6-10”.
4. Tap the next row’s groove over the tongue (using a block on pine and a rubber mallet on hardwoods).
5. Blind nail through the tongue again.
6. Continue likewise across the room until you approach the opposite wall.
7. Begin face nailing when you are no longer able to employ the nailing machine. If necessary, rip the final boards to leave a ½” gap adjacent to the wall.
8. Be sure to allow a minimum ¼” gap around vertical obstructions.

Time your floor installation with other trades

You should install your solid wood flooring before interior trim or cabinetry, and before the application of finish wall paint. This allows the trim to be tightly fitted and cabinetry to be scribed to the floor. The result is a cleaner, more professional installation

Install your floor

1. Strike a line parallel to the longest outside wall. The line should be a distance away from the wall equal to the width of the chosen starter row, including the tongue. plus ½”. This will leave a ½” gap between the floor and the wall.
2. Align the edge of the tongue with your marked line and face nail the groove side of the boards 1” in from the edge.
3. Once all boards are securely face nailed, proceed to blind nail the tongue side, using an appropriate length cleat, every 6-10”.
4. Tap the next row’s groove over the tongue (using a block on pine and a rubber mallet on hardwoods).
5. Blind nail through the tongue again.
6. Continue likewise across the room until you approach the opposite wall.
7. Begin face nailing when you are no longer able to employ the nailing machine. If necessary, rip the final boards to leave a ½” gap adjacent to the wall.
8. Be sure to allow a minimum ¼” gap around vertical obstructions.

Finish your floor

After all trim and cabinetry is installed and painted, and all other “messy” trades are done, sand and finish the floor to your liking.

Learn about how to maintain your Logs End floor.